Art in Hiding

Okay, don't worry -- in two days, I'm off to see Frederick, Emilia and the three adorable Woods children, so I will stop talking about art soon. Today was all about art in hiding. I went to Santa Trinita to look at a Madonna and Child by Scheggia. I have now taken to carrying pictures of what I'm looking for so that I can be very clear (when you ask an Italian guard, "Where is the Madonna and Child by Scheggia?" they say, "There are many Madonnas and Child here. Did you know that Scheggia is Masaccio's younger brother?" "Yes." "Oh. Well, I don't know where it is." This in Italian, broken on my side.) The sweet older guard and the church warden told me that the piece I wanted was upstairs, safe from robbery. I explained that I was not a robber. They laughed, and went upstairs to fetch the painting. They actually CARRIED IT DOWNSTAIRS LIKE A LAPTOP! Just grabbing the edge of one side! I couldn't believe it. I was afraid they'd drop it. But all was well, and I took a good look, and they then insisted that I take photos. With flash. Rather different from your usual museum experience.

One hidden picture found, I left for Arezzo, where the Museum staff had told me (per telephone) that the piece I wanted wasn't available because it was 'behind the walls.' I thought this was a way of saying 'in storage' so that I would understand (I am constantly playing Taboo here -- "May I have a utensil that opens wine bottles? Do you sell things for the feet that are not shoes? If there are eggs in this, are they cooked ones?" I should really learn more words.) But no! It turns out that ALL the art is literally behind some walls. They installed a new exhibition on these temporary walls built literally in front of the permanent collection! So there is absolutely no way to see anything behind the walls for two months! Crazy. Well, such is life! The woman in the bookshop explained, "only four people a day ever come to see the permanent collection. We didn't think they'd mind."

PS -- had a delicious lunch at my favorite lunch place -- an outpost of a local vineyard. This did not disappoint. They make these amazing open faced sandwiches (prosciutto and melon, salami and fig, chicken and garlicky cheese and tomato, salty cheese with carrot, apple, jicama and olive oil). Mmmm. Life is good.