So, last night I finally reached Delhi at 11 PM, after meeting some nice friends on the plane, finding the hotel driver, and sorting out baggage and customs. Unfortunately, the combination of jet lag, a noisy fan, and staying in a $12 hotel with windows that slammed open, etc. = no sleep until 5 AM. Boo. That's ALWAYS a bad start to a day in a new city. I woke up on the hour, but finally got dressed and ready at 10. At this point, my hotel owner demanded payment for a missed taxi the day before, since I had emailed but not called about the changed time (argh). Brushing off the annoyances at the hotel, I went to the train station to book my tickets and Kerri's for the whole trip -- only to find that I can't book her tickets without her passport (argh). So I turned to art, and spent the afternoon at the National Museum. They have a phenominal collection of Mughal miniatures and also an excellent selection of bronzes. It was so beautiful. I was so impressed by the lithe, supple figures, in such elegant and yet convincing motion -- compared to what Europeans were doing in the 8th - 11th centuries, it is so radically different. I'm afraid I have no photos, but I have a nice book I can show you sometime from the Met's last exhibit on the art of India.
After the Museum, I walked to the President's house and the Parliament buildings.. Here's a view of folks walking by the Ministry of Defense, a mirror image of Parliament across the street. It was a lovely walk, if hot. The buildings were designed under the British, but reflect Indian architecture -- so you end up with odd capitals on the columns, with elephants surmounted by Victorian cherubs holding garlands of flowers. What a mix!
After this, I wanted to go to the National Tourist Office to sort out a trip to Bomba
y/Mumbai, Udaipur and Johdpur. Somehow, I ended up at a private travel agent's office. (Somehow = my tuk-tuk driver (a sort of rickshaw, but with a motorcycle in the front) took me to a travel agent, claimed that it was the government of India office, and then probably collected a commission.) And, being VERY tired at this point, I didn't really notice that until late in the transaction. So my hotel budget has been raised to $20 a night, and I am headed to Varanasi (where all the religious come to bathe in the Ganges) and Khajuraho (where there is a famous shrine). I think this will be fun, and I am probably no longer cut out for $10 hotels that I can't actually sleep in anyway, so my cheap little heart is slowly getting over it. And I'm happy to have an actual plan -- the other route I wanted isn't connected by rail, and I'm not sure I wanted to see Udaipur enough to spend 15 hours on a bus!!!
I was feeling pretty stupid and down on myself after the travel agent's (although in the end it's probably better). But then I walked through Delhi's central park. It had just rained, and the air was cool and clean, and lots of Indian students and young couples were wandering around enjoying the breeze. It put a lot in perspective. I am really looking forward to the next few weeks. And right now, I'm really looking forward to dinner!
After the Museum, I walked to the President's house and the Parliament buildings.. Here's a view of folks walking by the Ministry of Defense, a mirror image of Parliament across the street. It was a lovely walk, if hot. The buildings were designed under the British, but reflect Indian architecture -- so you end up with odd capitals on the columns, with elephants surmounted by Victorian cherubs holding garlands of flowers. What a mix!
After this, I wanted to go to the National Tourist Office to sort out a trip to Bomba
y/Mumbai, Udaipur and Johdpur. Somehow, I ended up at a private travel agent's office. (Somehow = my tuk-tuk driver (a sort of rickshaw, but with a motorcycle in the front) took me to a travel agent, claimed that it was the government of India office, and then probably collected a commission.) And, being VERY tired at this point, I didn't really notice that until late in the transaction. So my hotel budget has been raised to $20 a night, and I am headed to Varanasi (where all the religious come to bathe in the Ganges) and Khajuraho (where there is a famous shrine). I think this will be fun, and I am probably no longer cut out for $10 hotels that I can't actually sleep in anyway, so my cheap little heart is slowly getting over it. And I'm happy to have an actual plan -- the other route I wanted isn't connected by rail, and I'm not sure I wanted to see Udaipur enough to spend 15 hours on a bus!!!I was feeling pretty stupid and down on myself after the travel agent's (although in the end it's probably better). But then I walked through Delhi's central park. It had just rained, and the air was cool and clean, and lots of Indian students and young couples were wandering around enjoying the breeze. It put a lot in perspective. I am really looking forward to the next few weeks. And right now, I'm really looking forward to dinner!
2 comments:
sorry to hear all your careful State-side planning got rearranged;
I like your description of the Indian/British arcitecture .. hope you have photos
well, that was the problem -- i didn't have any careful stateside plan -- until last week, I thought I'd spend this week in Nepal. But the killing of a few American women in and near Kathmandu changed my mind! My plans with Kerri are set, and I'd just like to offer a shout-out to planning -- it makes life so much easier, and vacation more fun!
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