Chillin' in Delhi

Yesterday Kerri and I made the trip back from Agra on a much slower train. We were the hit of the third class -- everyone craned their heads out of their bunks to get a better look at the two American girls playing Crazy Eights. You would think we were Bollywood celebrities. After 20 minutes or so, our mediocre card playing and inept shuffling bored everyone but one man and three little children, so we spent the rest of the ride fairly unobserved. I mention this because it is a consistent theme of my time in India -- everywhere we go, people stare. It was worse when I was alone, because people were incredulous that I would be travelling without my father or at least a group of other young people. But it continues even now. Kerri hates all the staring -- I'm slowly getting used to it and simply pretend that I am a movie star. It's probably the only time in my life that I will ever be such a head-turner!

The brazen stares bothered Kerri yesterday, but the blazing temperatures bothered her more. We spent a rather slow afternoon and then met up with our friend Andy for dinner. Andy is the best restaurant guide anyone could want -- we had dinner at a chic little restaurant with red glass chandeliers and those chunky, austere dark wood tables that are so popular in New York now. The paneer or fresh cheese curry was delicious, and Kerri really enjoyed her chicken biryani, a dish akin to fried rice, Indian style. Andy dared me to eat a chili and I survived -- but barely! Kerri went to bed after dinner and Andy and I continued to doctor our sodas with some gin I keep in a water bottle in my bag (there are many bars, but not every restaurant serves alcohol. You know my motto -- be prepared!). We were talking about India and the developing world in general -- Andy doesn't think he wants to live here, and is looking for an international post after his MBA. I have to say that I wouldn't want to live here either, mainly because I get the sense that I would always be an outsider. As they say of my new hometown, I suppose -- nice place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there!